Day 1 (11/01/2015) Sunday
I packed my bag and slept at about 2 in the morning and woke up 3 hours later. I washed up and cabbed to the airport with Afiq. We had breakfast at Macs with his friends before we flew off. Unfortunately, our flight was delayed by about an hour.

We reached Noi Bai Airport in Hanoi at noon and bought a local SIM card. We then took a cab to Hanoi Train station after bargaining with the cab driver to a price of 200000 D, half the price a tourist usually pays. During that time, he drove us to somewhere near, driving across both sides of the traffic and even going against the traffic at one point of time, something like what you would do when you play GTA. He then stopped and asked us to wait for him before asking us to change to another cab. We were skeptical about it but followed and thankfully the ride to downtown Hanoi was smooth. The cab driver dropped us at the correct Hanoi train station where trains are bound for Lao Cai. It was a good start.

We walked into the train stations and purchased our tickets for Lao Cai. To my surprise, the attendant could speak some English and the process was not as tedious as what I thought it would be. With a little hand signs, we got our tickets after deciding to try both the hard sleeper and the soft one, costing us 722000 D each. Finding a cheap hostel to stay on the last night was a swift as we spotted one hotel near the train station. The owner, Minh could speak good English and the rooms were alright so we just took it. It was 450000 D/night. Minh recommended a good place to have our pho for lunch but it was closed when we reached there. I got scammed by a local who was selling local donuts as I flashed my wallet before asking for the price and she was fast in grabbing the notes in my hands. At that time, I was not really familiar with the notes, so it took me a while to realize I got scammed. We went to a nearby street stall to have our pho instead. It was pleasantly light and delicious. Weddings were held near the streets and were simple and nice. Not to forget that there were quite a lot of beautiful ladies on the streets too.

We returned to the hostel and chatted up with Minh, and walked over to another stall to have dinner. The pho this time was slightly better tasting and cheaper. Soon, it was time for us to board the train and we went to the cabin assigned. On the way, we had a good look of the other privately managed cabins from the outside, and it seems like it was a little better, with lamps on the table on each cabins and more cosy, with better lighting, but they're at least 3 times more expensive than the normal ones. I always enjoyed sleeper trains. Enjoyed the darkness and the cold wind that blows in while the train gets faster. The hard sleeper was alright, and I fell asleep within moments. The hard sleeper doesn't allow for much movement, and the space was so small I couldn't even sit up straight, but the allocated space for luggage were ample for backpacks. We were sharing the compartment with a family of four, but it changes throughout the journey, with some of them talking on the phone in Vietnamese, while others using phone with the brightness affecting our sleep. On the contrary to what I read from the internet via other travelers' experience, the toilets in the train are usable and it was western style and not squatting ones as described on the net.

Day 2 (12/01/2015) Monday
I woke up 1 hour before reaching Lao Cai. Feeling so excited for the trip to start. When we reached, there was a guy offering to send us to Sapa town from the train station for 50000 D and we went along. We went into a minivan filled with other travelers and backpackers. But I dozed off during the 1 hour ride to Sapa. The minivan finally stopped at a guesthouse, and we paid the driver, not knowing where we are. We don't even have any idea where to head next. We took a look at the guest house that cost US$12/night and went off. We walked around in search for a proper hotel. After visiting a few hotels, we found one with really good view of the mountains that cost us 430000 D and agreed to stay there for a night. It was 7.30 when we settled at the hotel and we had to wait for 1.5 hours before we could check-in as it was fully booked the previous night. At about 9.30 am, we asked enquired about treks in Sapa and the hotel owner told us that a group trek is going to start in a few minutes' time and that we had to decide if we wanted to do it. We took the offer as it beat having to wait for another few hours before we could check in. The group tour cost 256000 D. The guide, Su picked us up from our hotel. It was a shock when she spoke almost perfect English with Caucasian accent when she introduced herself. And then when her phone rang, I saw that it was an iPhone. To think that they're poor! It was a good decision joining the group trek. I made friends with one of the Koreans in the group. We went visiting the villages and trekked through the rice fields. During a break at one of the rest point, we made friends with 2 Australians from the group.

After the trek, we went back to the hotel to check in and rested a while. Extended 2 more nights because we were lazy to find other hotels. We met up with the 2 Australians friends we just made for dinner, and then Shisha that cost US$10.

Day 3 (13/01/2015) Tuesday
We had breakfast and met up with the 2 Australians. Julie used Afiq phone to settle some credit card fraud. We went to Ham Rong mountain (pronounced as Ham Zong) and hiked up to the top. The mountain is actually a park, where statues are built in the several gardens of the park. There were some cherry trees. We could see the "dragon head" from the top, and stopped for some coffee. After we came down, I had some street food that looked like satay and bacon with golden mushrooms in it. We went for a lunch, and the restaurant had a good view of the mountains while we enjoyed our pho. The ginger tea was brewed with real gingers and not the typical powdered ones. We went over the Cat Cat village and it is really one of the better villages that we saw. We were able to go into the houses and sheds the villagers are living in. We came back with an xe om that cost us 60000 D.

Julie and Max came to find us after their dinner and we went to a bar to drink. I had hot local red wine during dinner, and it was relatively special, the smell of it was pungent when I smell it. Lao Cai beer is really mild. We asked different questions to know more about each other. It was a fun night knowing and understanding each other more!



Day 4 (14/01/2015) Wednesday
We walked around Sapa town the whole morning because we didn't manage to find any good massage places. We realized that there was a market along the small road and it was eye-opening. We went to take a look in the Luong Thuy Family guesthouse we initially wanted to book and, the view of the Hoang Lien National park from the room was unobstructed. The toilet was new and clean too, although it was 3 ~ 5 minutes away from Sapa town, but the price is US$20/night. We tried some of the banana and sweet potato fritters off the streets and it was amazing and cheap. We met up with Max and Julie again for lunch as it was their last day here. We parted our ways after taking photos together.


We went to a massage place across the hotel we stayed in and it wasn't that good. After that, we rented motorbikes and headed to Thac bac and Love waterfall. At the love waterfall, people are allowed to bathe during hotter periods but it was too cold during this season. There was one group of Caucasians on higher ground, and there was no stairs to get that high. The guys took turn to strip bare, and it was awkward looking at them. We weren't that adventurous. The experience of riding a motorbike was awesome, but I had 2 falls with the 2nd one ripping my jeans, thermal wear, and the right side of the mirror. It was alright, and fortunately, I escaped with just some scratches. I had to go to the xe may to get it repaired in case the hostel that rented us the bikes scam me knowing that we're tourist. It cost about 145000 D to get that mirror replaced. We bought some instant noodles and had it for dinner. I slept really early at 8.30 pm.

Day 5 (15/01/2015) Thursday
We had breakfast at the hotel as usual before setting off. Noting that it was our last day, I suggested for us to visit another village before we leave Sapa for Hanoi and we went to Ta Phin village without hesitation. We took a xe om again, with discount that cost us 100000 D two way. The ride from Sapa town to the village was downhill and fantastic. The experience in Ta Phin village was also good, with villagers bringing us around. Because it was located on flat land and not on mountains, the rice fields were wide, and when I look at the sun at that moment, it feels like I'm in some sort of movie, with time slowing down. The moment was indescribable. They showed us around and brought us into their home. The house was big, with bamboo poles weaved together to make the fence around the house to prevent wild animal to eat up their plantations. They plant their own vegetables, and were self-sufficient. The house were made mainly of wood. There was basic cooking tools, beds, and power points, but no toilets. Rice could be seen near the cooking area and the house doesn't have any compartments or rooms. We went to visit the Ta Phin cave, and it was a real cave and it was said that there was a river inside the cave if we go deep enough. As usual, the  On the way back,

I had some Pho in the village before heading back to Sapa town. We walked down to the artist studio where we had coffee. I tried the salt coffee and it was really unique and good. Good views of mountains with some nice art pieces by the artists. We went to this cafe along the road to Cat Cat village and Afiq had his late lunch. We walked back to Sapa town and waited for the transport back to Lao Cai at 5 pm. It was already dark when we got to the train station. Afiq dropped his lens cover in the minivan. I had some porridge before getting up the train. It feels good to have a simple, hot meal that doesn't cost a lot in the cold weather. The soft sleeper was similar to the hard sleeper in terms of the pillow, blanket and bed quality, it feels as hard as the hard sleeper, just that there's only 4 occupants in one compartment. This time, we had the whole compartment to ourselves as the other two were left empty.

Day 6 (16/01/2015) Friday
We checked in to the hostel in Hanoi after a good night's sleep in the train, but continued sleeping until 9 in the morning after having our breakfast and some bread at nearby pho stall. The streets were empty and looked kind of abandoned with only very few stalls open.

We had Pho at Pho 10 at about 10 am before starting the day. It was good, and filled with locals and foreigners. We went to the park nearby and saw some people exercising and meditating. While exploring the streets, we ran into some cobblers strolling around trying to fix shoes for foreigners for US$1 and Afiq suggested that it was a good deal if I could get my shoes fixed for that price. I decided to let the cobbler fix my shoes. We waited for about an hour before he finished and I bought him coffee, thinking that he deserved more than US$1. He was skillful in sewing the broken shoes and even stick another layer of good quality sole for me. After he's done with the shoe, he cleaned up all the mud that was accumulated with days of trekking in Sapa. The shoe was almost as good as new. He then requested 600000 D from me when I start to wear one side of the shoe and I totally knew at that point of time that it was one of the scam, and I'm not gonna fall for it. Pissed off, I took off my shoe and threw it to him, determined to get a new shoe at one of the store nearby, which would be much cheaper than the repair. Argued and he finally agreed to a 100000 D for the repair, and then requested another 50000 D when I start wearing my shoes. I ignored and walked off after paying.

We continued walking and getting lost, looking out for cafes. We stopped by a coffee shop and I had some Vietnamese coffee. Walked around and Afiq bought a cap from one of the skate shop. We passed by the Army Museum but it was already closed. Such a waste. We could see the fighter jets and tanks used in the American War from the outside, though. We stopped at the Lenin park where we saw some kids skating. We walked towards the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. There was a lot of foreigners. We visited the One-pillar pagoda and decided to go for some dinner. On our way back, we saw a cafe named Ozone Cafe and decided to go in and have something to eat. Waffles and coffee were served, and the food was good. We sat on the second floor of the cafe at the balcony. Took a look at the interior which is really warm and great, ideal for gatherings or bonding sessions. We got lost and walked here and there before getting to the KFC near the roundabout at hanoi. On the way, we walked along the Hoan Kiem lake with a turtle tower in the middle of the lake lit up beautifully. It was a little different from how we buy our KFC here. Basically, we ordered at level 1 and collect our food at level 2 after presenting the receipt for them to prepare the food.

Feeling adventurous, we walked around and saw the night market at the Dong Xuan market. Took a walk down the night market. It was a interesting sight, The market is just a wet market in the morning but transformed into night market with different kind of vendors in the night. We walked back to the hotel and rest for tomorrow. Afiq blasted his music with his wireless speakers while sitting on the edge of the balcony smoking.

Day 7 (17/01/2015) Saturday
Woke up early and checked out of the hostel at 7.30 am. We walked around in search of breakfast and had our last Pho at one of the side road leading to a market. As usual, it was good, and I had a cup of freshly made soya milk that cost only 5000 D. It was a mixture of the soya milk and traditional bean curd. It was really good. We then set off to the airport taking a cab, this time it cost us 300000 D. It was a good trip, but I'll definitely be back in Vietnam. We had iced coffee before taking off.

written @ 8:36 PM

written @ 3:26 PM